![]() ![]() “I try to really bring transformation and life into my work and it’s hard because clothes and fabrics aren’t made to live but that’s maybe my ultimate dream. “Sometimes a fabric feels dead to me,” she said. It was not until the early 1930s when balletomania took hold that couturiers allowed themselves to be influenced by the newly respectable art form, designing luscious tutu-inspired gowns that. Van Herpen, who was a dancer before she was a designer, explained backstage that these movements and gestures represent a long journey towards animating her designs. Today, what rigidity remained was attributable to the platform shoes. Although we have observed intriguing, quivering movements from her in the past, certain others tended towards stiff. Even an oil-painted depiction of water by Shelee Carruthers streamed softly across a loosely shaped, diaphanous dress. Further on, sound waves painted and printed onto organza spheres were layered as a tiered dimensional shape that oscillated as though underwater.Īdditional designs-each attesting to Van Herpen’s technical and artistic legerdemain-fluttered, flowed, and reverberated in step with the models who, themselves, swished around the central stage like marine animals. In the video, Michael appears as a director filming a fictional fashion show that evokes the spirit of a Mugler production thanks to its compelling mix of top models, actresses, and cult icons including Herzigova. But what caught the eye was when she began gently waving her arms so that the pleated sleeves became billowing extensions of a root structure. Off the runway, Mugler worked as both director and costume designer for the 1992 video of George Michael’s Too Funky. The first model to emerge out of darkness wore a gown featuring an intricate laser-cut black leather corset. ![]() For this collection, along with exploring the branching forms of dendrites and deep-sea hydrozoa organisms, she seemed to be evoking their natural and varied states of movement. By this point in her career, and with sufficient time for R&D, Iris Van Herpen can evoke just about any pattern in nature: plant membranes, feathers, fossils, fins, bubbles, sound waves-the current list is long and impressive. ![]()
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